Thinner Jackets. Elastic attached to the body of the suit (good) but the toggles are not (bad). Designed for high altitude mountaineering. Manoeuvres are executed at an excruciatingly slow pace and every aspect of the race is dominated by the weather and conditions. you wanted something different then that S, M, L, XL, 2XL. thigh pockets have Velcro access but fit and volume with just one pull on In comparison, a down suit is cumbersome, heavy and will fill up most of your pack, when the only day it will be of any real use is on summit day. With the use of a bit of technology and a thermal imaging camera the team were able to compare and contrast various suits and find out where on the body we would benefit having the most warmth. are backed up with stitching that Verdict The internal mesh pockets are compromised as seen here by the location of the braces and the elasticated waist band. Everest Expedition by The South Col Route A fully inclusive KTM to KTM Everest expedition including all accommodation, all meals, a superb 3 week trekking and acclimatisation itinerary, individual Base Camp tents, excellent Base Camp services, all logistics and supplies on the hill, a plentiful supply of oxygen, Western Leader and 1:1 Climbing Sherpa. The North Face Himalayan Suit – 1,950g – rrp £950 (up from £900) I could always buy some Velcro and attach it myself … but for £800 surely, in the 21st century, this should be done by the manufacturer? As a first effort at a GCSE in design it is only just ok, and hopefully ME will build on this suit and bring it in to line with the others. There is no ‘standard’ I wonder why? Yes you can get plenty of things in there but water bottles will be prone to falling over and, if the lid hasn’t quite been done up properly, a leak could ensue. The volume adjuster at the back of the hood is totally useless. You can pick one up off a shelf for around £800-900 (The North Face does a good one), or you can pay extra for a bespoke suit. when not wearing a mask. Karnicar was the first man to ski down from the summit of Mt. Only 2 external pockets. This Down Suit was built to withstand the harshest conditions atop the world’s highest peaks, with a fully welded, waterproof construction and 800-fill down to keep you warm. There are 4 outer pockets but I’m afraid that, like the Mountain Equipment jacket (see below), the 2 pockets with simple Velcro fastening on the chest really cause me concern. In this instance there is absolutely no reason not to have a longer strip of Velcro. With the 3 piece I found that I was able to keep cooler, particularly in windy conditions, than I would normally have been able to in a suit. Everest Gear List • With passport, cash, travel documents (travel itinerary and hotel vouchers if ... down suit but also fit snugly over just a base layer when it is hot down low. Velcro I say. Russian Valery Rozov, 48, leaps off the world's highest peak. It will undoubtedly mean that you are an inconvenience to the others in the tent and, psychologically, it will have you in a tizz and annoyed at yourself, which is not the right frame of mind for you to be in. 2019 - Not All Down Suits Are Equal Once upon a time down suits didn’t exist and now they are considered an essential piece of clothing in the high altitude wardrobe. Invariably with big mitts on, and in challenging conditions, it is easier to find one thing to grab instead of 2. Personally I’d prefer shock But they are almost too roomy. for toilet access. Internal braces aren’t removable Dave Hahn discusses the different features of a very important piece of equipment needed for scaling Everest—the down suit. There is no ‘standard’ There are 2 internal pockets for water There’s a 4 way zipper at front giving plenty of ventilation options as well as that all important pee access, and the front zipper is protected by two overlapping insulated baffles. The hood adjustment does the hood and the volume all in one by way of an elasticated pull through a fixed toggle on the back of the hood – which worked surprisingly well. Features. It’s a 2 piece combo and is reviewed on a separate page. The front zipper has a 4 way pull and, as with all their zippers, they are using a fine toothed reversed waterproof zipper. As with the Rab and TNF suits this impressed straight out of the box. What is the benefit of using a two-piece suit over a one-piece suit in your opinion? Velcro I say. If you are buying a suit for the first time it’s all too easy to concentrate on how warm it needs to be but actually you end up wearing a suit in a whole variety of conditions and quite often you actually want a suit that isn’t too warm and allows you to be cool enough. Of all the manufacturers, PHD are the only ones who make bespoke suits. There’s also a radio mic attachment point which some may view as being useful. Pockets and Adjusters . But they are almost too roomy. If that is a chest pocket then it’s only a matter of time before you’ll be dropping your precious cargo. Keswick's local Everest expeditioner Tim Mosedale did an excellent review of Down Suits once. Mountain Equipment Redline Suit – 2140g (L) – No longer being made! Not a great suit, especially at the price. Share Link. We worked with the world's most accomplished alpinists to redesign this suit from the ground up, refining features from oxygen mask-compatibility to a unique internal suspender system. Why install a 1, 2 or 3 pull zipper when a 5 or 6 pull zipper gives far more access and venting options? I guess the idea here is that you might still have roughly the same amount of down as another suit except it is thicker where you need it most and thinner where it is virtually redundant. See below for the latest update on the Mountain Hardwear suit and above for the latest PhD suit. If you need to keep the fridge down low but still want the convenience of 2 nice big storage drawers then this system might be the one for you! There are 2 on the thighs (good), 2 insulated Napoleon pockets (good), an inner zipped pocket (good) and 2 insulated pockets at waist level that may get compromised depending on your harness (medium good to poor). The designers have used 850 fill-power goose down, with the average fill per suit just exceeding 1 kg. There are 2 insulated ‘Napoleon’ style pockets on the chest and an uninsulated zippered thigh pocket. This is not an easy task. But the next surprise was that the contents consisted of 3 items and therein lies the basis to their claim. Down Suit. With slightly longer zip pulls on some of the zippers this will be even better and competing very favourably for the No1 spot (yes, I could easily change them myself but, at a whopping £1,000, why should I have to?) Apr 29, 2020 - Everest Expedition by The South Col Route A fully inclusive KTM to KTM Everest expedition including all accommodation, all meals, a superb 3 week trekking and acclimatisation itinerary, individual Base Camp tents, excellent Base Camp services, all logistics and supplies on the hill, a plentiful supply of oxygen, Western Leader and 1:1 Climbing Sherpa. The internal mesh pockets need a serious redesign because they are an essential part of your summit day self sufficiency and the waist pockets could perhaps be better located. These need to be moved. One of the suits had neither! A really well thought out suit at a good price. If you envisage always needing to be togged up then you may well want to have a suit, whereas if you envisage sometimes wanting the benefit of a jacket, whilst not necessarily needing the warmth of the salopettes, then the combination may be the choice. The chunky leg zippers just have an internal baffle which sits really well. To that end make sure that you try every zipper, pocket and feature with your mitts on in the shop because it’s a bit late to discover drawbacks when you are on the mountain. It apparently dries quicker when wet and recovers its loft faster than regular down too. This suit is designed and made in Sheffield by Rab, and has been used extensively on our 7000m – 8000m and Polar expeditions for many years. Yuichiro Miura became the first man to ski down Everest in the 1970s. There’s a pouch in the inside back of the suit for a hydration pack and a sleeve to hold the drinks tube in place. Mount Everest has been host to other winter sports and adventuring besides mountaineering, including snowboarding, skiing, paragliding, and BASE jumping. The hood adjustment does the hood and the volume all in one by way of an elasticated pull through a fixed toggle on the back of the hood – which worked surprisingly well. The internal mesh pockets are zippered for extra security and are quite large. There’s not much Velcro and if it gets frosted up the pocket will be worse than useless. Trying to get a ½l Nalgene in there whilst wearing mitts will be a definite distraction. A really well thought out suit at a good price. Velcro adjuster on the wrist. The other drawback about not having a front baffle protecting the zipper is that all the condensation that drips from the front of an oxygen mask starts to freeze the zip so it will be stuck closed. North Face Himalayas $1000 . Do not accept that you only have the choice of the two in the shop that you visit. warmer’ position instead. Joby Ogwyn is still coming down from his historic Everest wing-suit flight. With a bit of extra attention to the top of the front zipper / face guard area (which, whilst roomy enough to accommodate a mask, was far too voluminous without one) this will be a great suit. The down side is the cost – but this may be rectified soon so watch this space (and as a result I have upgraded from an 8 to and 8.5 to draw equal first place with the Rab suit). Be ski ready with our Everest Down Snow Parka coat featuring nine pockets, perfect for storing your essentials whilst on the slopes. Description. And the rainbow seat gives excellent toilet access. More pockets & better side ventilation would be better. at the back. Verdict restricts access which, in turn, There are only 2 outer pockets (although these were zippered, slanted hand warmer style chest pockets and readily accessible) and they have opted for 4 internal pockets. May 11, 2017 - When spring comes, Mt Everest turnsâ into a deadly free-for-all as tooâ many climbers scramble for theâ ultimate thrill, writes Lukas Eberle. This allows As with the Rab suit this is very ventable and I could almost wear it in comfort in the office – not quite as good because the Rab venting goes all the way under the shoulder to the sleeve. I used the Absolute Zero down suit on my summit day on Mount Everest and it kept me very warm, while also comfortable and easy to climb in. The other outer pockets were hand warmer style and nicely positioned to be accessible when wearing a rucksack, or harness, or both. The harness felt great but was let down by the braces. Security is paramount, and yet decisions about gear weight are still relevant, not only about what you take, also about what you don't. So snacks, water, spare glasses, (non freezing) sun cream, camera etc all need to be stowed and accessible. What aspects of a suit filled with feathers was there to revolutionise? (Please note that this review is for the older (orange and red) version of the suit. The thigh pockets, the 6 way leg zippers and the hobo mitt – all good features. Millet One Sport Everest Boot. which works extremely well. Shuksan. You do get the feeling that these zippers need to be treated with care – especially as materials start to get stiff and unmanageable in the frigid conditions. There are 4 outer pockets but I’m afraid that, like the Mountain Equipment jacket (see below), the 2 pockets with simple Velcro fastening on the chest really cause me concern. Since then the design has been recognised as the best kit for the highest peaks and copied world-wide. A great thumb loop and cuff along with 2 / 10 If they insist on using Velcro for the volume adjuster it should be going up and through a small buckle and then down on to the other piece of Velcro. It can go from -30 to +30 in a matter of minutes in The Western Cwm and if you get caught out on The Lhotse Face, panting your way up or down the ropes, then the ability to go from super warm option to suitably vented option will be a definite bonus. That’s probably why they don’t need to be selling retail. Down Suit. They have gone for extra attention by having the elastic tied to a small loop on the body of the suit, but then the toggles aren’t fixed to the suit to allow one handed operation. Excellent highly visible internal braces When you have your mitts on you should still be able to operate the zippers and one handed operation should be the default setting. that are easy to locate. Firstly the package seemed to be almost too light – under 1.5kg making it the lightest down suit by a long chalk. If they sort the braces and it will be pegging 1st equal. Used on Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Manaslu. Lounging in the sun at 28,700 feet inside my thick down suit, gazing across the roof of the world in a hypoxic stupor, I completely lost track of time. Toilet access is by way of the up and under front zip which has a 4 way zipper which is the only redeeming feature really. Even though it has now been discontinued there are still some retailers who have stock … I’ll say again DO NOT BUY this suit. The Velcro access front pocket lets this in amongst all that black material). There are only 3 internal and 2 external pockets which really lets this fantastic suit down. The other outer pockets were hand warmer style and nicely positioned to be accessible when wearing a rucksack, or harness, or both. best feature. $700.00 USD. Similar to the Mountain Hardwear suit this also features a 6 zipper rainbow drop seat which is zipped all the way from the ankle so not only is it great for toilet access but also for venting off in warmer conditions. There are 4 internal pockets but it would be better if 2 of these were outside. Either way this could lead to you compromising the warmth of your lower arm and, in turn, your hand. So whilst they end up with the same number of pockets and amount of storage as most of the other suits you have to undo the front of the suit to get to a lot of your stuff. Bridgedale Endurance Summit Grey/ Blue. Do not accept that you only have the choice of the two in the shop that you visit. Namba wore her down suit when she and her fellow hikers summit Mount Everest. The clip fastener at the top of the front zip is a bit fiddly with mitts on and I can’t help but feel that a side press toggle instead of middle press clip would be so much better. The Velcro pockets are not adequate. are backed up with stitching that The internal suspenders are absolutely useless because there is not enough Velcro for them to be cinched high enough. The internal collar can be adjusted to give a very snug fit which means no nasty draughts coming in through the largest opening – the front of the hood. If it is given a baffle and better internal pockets it will be almost unbeatable. View our Expedition Stockists. The one pull adjustment for the front of the hood was very fiddly and didn’t pull through very easily. A wider, static webbing would almost undoubtedly be better. My gripe with this is that you are then forced in to either putting your mitt over the sleeve and maybe compressing the down in the suit, or if you have a snuggish low volume mitt that won’t go over you will need to put it up the inside the sleeve where the mitt may get squeezed by the cuff. We have used down suites from both Mountain Hardware and North Face and they all worked equally well. I personally advocate that zippers should be undone and done up (if closed) and done up and then undone (if the suit is open) every 15 minutes anyway, to make sure that this doesn’t become a problem. As mentioned previously, if you’ve already popped your boots on then it is a veritable catastrophe which, with all that breathlessness at altitude, could set you back 20 minutes. On October 8th, 2010, Joby Ogwyn stepped out of a small plane hovering over the Himalayas at 29,000 ft and into the history books, becoming the first person to fly a wingsuit next to Mt. (but are a little bit difficult to find being black which is a pain if you inadvertently They are very difficult to use easily due to a combination of their location and the proximity of the braces, and if the waist draw cord is cinched they are nigh on impossible to use (and that is in my kitchen with no gloves on). There’s also a radio mic attachment point which some may view as being useful. A great thumb loop and cuff along but is possible through the right pocket A great robust feel and a lot of attention to detail. With the use of a bit of technology and a thermal imaging camera the team were able to compare and contrast various suits and find out where on the body we would benefit having the most warmth. Absolutely rubbish suspenders. For a big brand producer with a great reputation this seems to be quite a minimalist and ill conceived suit really. The chunky leg zippers just have an internal baffle which sits really well. If they insist on using Velcro for the volume adjuster it should be going up and through a small buckle and then down on to the other piece of Velcro. 7 attributes that you need to climb Mount Everest, Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Expedition Suit. There’s a 3 way front zipper of the ‘up and under’ variety to allow for toilet (pooh) access and allows for a bit of venting. On top of the world. Vernachio came up with the idea of attempting Everest as a way to product-test new Mountain Hardwear high-altitude clothing and equipment, such as their down suit, Trango tent and 75-litre pack. Everest. (Please note that this review is for the older (orange and red) version of the suit. Kept. Everest College has been proven to have broken the law, which means that all you need to do is show that Everest lied to you and you believed that it would be a good idea to take on a loan to attend their school. Suits now come with internal braces as standard which improves the fit and means that the top can be stripped off and worn wrapped around the waist when you are too hot. Build to withstand the harshest conditions atop the world’s highest peaks. There are 4 external pockets – 2 are zipped ‘Napoleon’ style pockets and 2 are vertical pockets with a Velcro flap which really didn’t do it for me. The waist adjustment would be better if the toggle was attached to the suit making it a one handed adjustment. I guess the idea here is that you might still have roughly the same amount of down as another suit except it is thicker where you need it most and thinner where it is virtually redundant. But moved. to adjust for fit and volume. Just the right size for vertical water bottles. A generous and workable hood with one So whilst they end up with the same number of pockets and amount of storage as most of the other suits you have to undo the front of the suit to get to a lot of your stuff. The pockets were very useful for keeping important items accessible. You have to ask yourself how much would it cost for the fluffy bit of Velcro to be extended by about 10″. There’s not enough material for them to be adjusted upwards. Use a heavy down suit for the summit. For a suit that is literally made to measure and is totally fit for purpose then look no further. Waterproof zips feel that they need They don’t sell them in retail outlets so you can’t try before you buy but they compensate for this by having a website that allows you to decide what features you would like. Expedition Jacket. Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Expedition Suit – 1,800g – rrp £800 (down from £1,000). There are no seams visible and effectively this would appear to be a down suit which is then cocooned in an outer layer. The one pull adjustment for the front of the hood was very fiddly and didn’t pull through very easily. You need a decent number of internal and external pockets – enough so that once you set off on summit day you probably won’t be reaching in to your rucksack (which is harder than it sounds when you are all togged up and attached to your oxygen supply). is possible through the right pocket Keswick's local Everest expeditioner Tim Mosedale did an excellent review of Down Suits once. Pack a down suit! Without a doubt they have put a lot of thought in to their products and can react immediately to any design alterations (for instance when I mentioned about not having black braces inside a black suit I was told that, from now on, they will be putting some reflective tape in there). The zipper has been extended up the torso to allow for crapping but this means the gap is then too big when venting the thigh and leaves the torso completely exposed – that is if you can actually get the side opened when you are wearing a rucksack and a harness, and down mitts, which is very doubtful. Another aspect that particularly impressed me is that when I got back from Everest and was giving feedback Peter Ellitot took the effort to come and visit me at home and we chatted through everything over a cup of tea and a biscuit. This is the best suit when you combine value for money and key features that you ought to have when your life depends on an item of clothing in a life and death situation. Made in Seattle, Washington for over 25 years, the Expedition Suit has been the down suit of choice by the world’s foremost mountain athletes and made it to the top of many 8,000m peaks and extensively in the North and South poles. Yes I advocate plenty of storage, but in reality the internal pockets are probably only going to be for some water so narrow, material pockets are better suited to keeping ½ litre Nalgenes vertical – so that if you haven’t quite screwed the top on properly you won’t have an inadvertent leak. Importantly the ‘over’ items are cut to allow the inner suit to still function – if they were too tight you’d compress the down in the inner suit and lose the loft and warmth. So whilst there is no ‘standard’ suit what I can say is that the suit I saw was incredibly well made and packed with features. There are 2 internal pockets for water Regular price: $24.99. They also use waterproof fabric panels in damage prone areas. This is a very simple matter for them to rectify and, as mentioned earlier, single hand adjustability should be the default option. Bespoke suits with a great reputation. I could always buy some Velcro and attach it myself … but for £800 surely, in the 21st century, this should be done by the manufacturer? The thigh pockets, the 6 way leg zippers and the hobo mitt – all good features. zippers no longer slide freely and have to be fiddled with and pushed through or under gaps). Karnicar was the first man to ski down from the summit of Mt. But because this inner suit is much lighter and cooler than a full blown suit I was able to wear it in a bigger range of conditions whilst keeping pleasantly cool. There are options for a lighter fill, a detachable or a fixed hood, an extension flap to cover the oxygen mask, 900 fill down, Velcro patches and a choice of toilet access solutions. It is the cheapest but it is also the one with the least thought. Center Back Length: 28 in / 71 cm; Uses: Alpine Climbing; Q Shield™ Down: welded, watertight baffle construction ; 6-slider watertight rainbow rear-zip for easy on/off It’s for you to decide which is your favoured method. Another great feature is access to the inside the suit from the outer pocket on the right side which allows for great versatility – so no need to be opening the front of the suit for a water bottle (and losing all that well earned warmth) when you can get it through the smaller pocket access. Item Location: Yasuko Namba's (Naoko Mori) costume from the Walden Media adventure biopic Everest. Having said that, the adjustment potential is very good and can easily cater for a helmet on / helmet off situation. High volume internal pockets are a bit frustrating. So you can choose a rainbow drop seat or an up and under or a side opening according to your preference. Also you can’t vent off easily when wearing a harness. Thankfully the front zipper is also backed up by a single baffle to keep the frost and ice off. This suit features a 6 zipper rainbow drop seat which is zipped all the way from the ankle so not only is it great for toilet access but also for venting off in warmer conditions. Useless. being stretchy, will create more excess There’s no outer zip baffle so, as with the Rab suit, the zipper is directly exposed to the wind and will get frozen with the dripping condensation from your mask. Some suits vent better than others. Don Whillans and Pete Hutchinson designed and tested the first suits way back in the 50s – Don, a plumber by trade, wanted a boiler suit full of feathers and Pete, who used to make his own gear, was the man who knew how to make it. The front of the hood is adjusted on each side with a single pull down to tighten and a single pull sideways on a separate attachment to loosen. But be aware that it is still available online from various retailers who still have stock. Can be improved. All the zippers have oversized zip pulls for ease of use with mitts on. Zippered and mesh internal pockets. In 2016, Corinthian Colleges was obliged to pay more than $1.1 billion to the State of California, in part for defrauding thousands of students. This is not its Very poor helmet adjustment. As on the TNF suit this one features integrated hobo mitts which are fixed back from the wrist to allow for the sleeve to still go over down mitts. Personally I’d prefer shock the ankle, under the armpit and Some of these items (camera for instance) can go on a cord over the head and be dropped in to the front of your jacket whereas others (water bottles) definitely need to be in a pocket. to the inside of the suit. Our founder, Peter Hutchinson, made the first ever one-piece Down Suit (for Don Whillans on Everest) in 1971. The 5 zipped side zipper goes from Two of the suits featured non releasable suspenders and I sincerely hope that they rectify this issue (because it is an issue). Everest. The down jacket should be one of the thickest made. They also feature a zipped fly, slightly to one side of the main zipper, to allow easy access when you have to pee or use a sheewee without opening the whole suit and losing all that warm air which is a very good design. $150.00 USD . This is the Dyson™ (1st generation) of down suits. The front zipper is protected by a double baffle to keep the elements at bay and protects the zip from frosting and icing. Personally I’d also say that the waist level pockets would be better suited in the hand warmer position at chest level. With hand warmer pockets instead of ‘Napoleon’ pockets it will be an awesome suit (let’s face it they both do the job of being pockets but the hand warmer position is more user friendly). The over jacket is designed with the inner suit in mind … so there is a ‘through’ pocket to allow access to your inner suit pockets for your 1/2 litre water bottles or other items and the pit zips are designed in such a way that you can still operate the inner ones as easily as if you didn’t have the outer jacket on.

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